LAUGAVEGUR - THE BEST TRAIL IN ICELAND?

24/10/2024

LAUGAVEGUR

The Laugavegur trail in Iceland is one of the most famous and popular hiking trails in the country. It is approximately 55 km long and leads from the Landmannalaugar(Rainbow Mountains) area, famous for its hot springs and colourful rhyolite mountains, to the Þórsmörk valley, surrounded by glaciers. The trek usually takes 3-4 days, depending on the pace and conditions. Physically fit individuals are able to complete the entire trek in 1 to 1.5 days.

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What makes this trek so special is the diversity of the landscape it traverses. Volcanic deserts, lava fields, geothermal areas, glacial rivers, green valleys and snowfields alternate along the way. Many hikers experience a variety of weather conditions during the route, from sunny days to fog and rain, even in a short period of time.

There are several huts along the trail where hikers can stay overnight, but due to limited capacity, it's a good idea to make reservations in advance. Some people choose to camp, which is also possible if you stick to the official camping spots.

In several places, especially between Álftavatn and Emstrur, you will have to ford glacial rivers.

It is best to go trekking in summer when conditions are favourable (mid-June to mid-September). In winter, the trail is impassable due to snow and dangerous conditions.

The Laugavegur trail is renowned for its difficulty due to its unpredictable weather and rugged terrain, but its natural beauty and diversity make it one of the most beautiful trails in the world.

MOUNTAIN HUTS AND CAMPING SITES

There are several huts and camping sites along the Laugavegur trail, which are managed by the Icelandic Tourist Association (Ferðafélag Íslands, FI). The huts are simple but well equipped and serve as a refuge for hikers who want to rest or spend the night. The cottages must be booked in advance (several weeks to months in advance). Most of them also have adjacent camping areas that are large enough that it is not necessary to book in advance.

Here is an overview of the main lodges and camping sites along the Laugavegur trail: 

1. LANDMANNALAUGAR

The Landmannalaugar area is the starting point of the Laugavegur trail. One of the main attractions are the natural geothermal springs, in which visitors can bathe. 

  • There is a hut with a capacity of 78 beds and a large camping site. The hut is divided into several smaller rooms with bunk beds. You will find kitchen equipment (stove, utensils), drinking water and toilets. There is no electricity for normal use, but basic needs like lighting are covered. The price per night is around 13,000 ISK per person, but it depends on the season and availability. To book, visit the official website https://www.fi.is/en/mountain-huts/all-mountain-huts/landmannalaugar
  • The campsite in Landmannalaugar is located near the hut and is a good choice for tourists who bring their own equipment or prefer camping. The campsite is large, with plenty of space for tents, but its location is on volcanic soil so the terrain can be rocky. It is recommended to have sturdy tent stakes and a reliable tent that can withstand the wind. Toilets, hot water showers (for a fee) and washing facilities are available. Drinking water is available from nearby springs. The campsite does not have electric hook-ups. The camping fee is lower, usually around 2,000 ISK per person per night. Booking in advance is not necessary. 

2. HRAFNTINNUSKER

Hrafntinnusker is the first stop on the Laugavegur trail, approximately 12 km from Landmannalaugar. The area is known for its rugged, volcanic landscape and therefore there are limited camping opportunities.

  • The hut in Hrafntinnusker is one of the most isolated on the whole trail and provides basic facilities for overnight stays in the extreme conditions of this high mountain area. The hut has approximately 50 beds. The rooms are very simple, with bunk beds and mattresses. There is no access to electricity, running water or showers. However, you will find basic kitchen facilities (gas cookers) and dry toilets outside. The price per night is around 13,000 ISK per person. To book, visit the website https://www.fi.is/en/mountain-huts/all-mountain-huts/hrafntinnusker
  • Camping is possible in the area around the hut, but spaces are limited and the terrain is uneven. Hikers wishing to pitch a tent should be prepared for strong winds and temperatures that can be very low even in summer.

3. ÁLFTAVATN

Álftavatn is one of the most scenic stops on the Laugavegur trail and is located approximately 24 km from Landmannalaugar, making it a popular stop on the second day of the hike. The area offers spectacular views of Lake Álftavatn and the surrounding mountains. Accommodation options here include both mountain huts and camping, so you can choose according to your preference.

  • The hut in Álftavatn has a capacity of approximately 70 beds, making it one of the larger huts on the trail. The hut is equipped with bunk beds with mattresses, a kitchenette (with gas cookers) and drinking water. You must have your own supplies to prepare meals, although the hut provides basic utensils and cookers. The price per night is around 13,000 ISK per person. Reservations can be made on the website https://www.fi.is/en/mountain-huts/all-mountain-huts/alftavatn
  • Camping is allowed near the hut, with a beautiful view of Lake Álftavatn. The terrain is relatively flat and grassy, which creates good conditions for pitching a tent. There are toilets, drinking water and showers, which are chargeable (around 500 ISK for 10 min). Showers are not commonly available at every stop on the trail, so Álftavatn is one of the few places where you can freshen up. 

4. HVANNGIL

Hvanngil is a minor stop on the Laugavegur trail, located between Álftavatn and Emstrur (Botnar). It is approximately 4 km from Álftavatn and is a popular stop for those looking for a quieter place to spend the night after a strenuous hike. Hvanngil offers both hut accommodation and camping, which is ideal for hikers who want to shorten the stages of the trail.

  • The hut in Hvanngil is smaller and less busy than other huts on the route, making it a great choice for those who prefer a quieter environment. The hut has a capacity for approximately 60 people. The rooms are simple, with bunk beds and mattresses. There is a kitchenette with gas cookers and basic utensils. There is no electricity or running water, but dry toilets are available. Drinking water must be obtained from a nearby stream. The price per night is around ISK 13,000. To book, visit https://www.fi.is/en/mountain-huts/all-mountain-huts/hvanngil
  • The campsite is located close to the hut and provides ample space for pitching a tent. The terrain is grassy and flatter than some other parts of the trail, making it a more comfortable place to camp. The campsite offers basic amenities such as toilets and access to drinking water from a nearby stream. There are no showers.

5. EMSTRUR (BOTNAR)

Emstrur, also known as Botnar, is another key spot on the Laugavegur trail, located about 15 km from Hvanngil and 38 km from Landmannalaugar. This place is the third stop for most hikers on the trail, if they follow the usual 4-day trekking layout. Emstrur is a popular stop due to its beautiful scenery, including breathtaking canyons and views of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier. It offers both hut and camping options.

  • The hut in Emstrur, like the other huts on the Laugavegur trail, is a simple mountain structure that provides basic shelter for hikers. The hut has a capacity of approximately 60 beds. The beds are in the form of bunk beds with mattresses, so you need to bring your own sleeping bag. The hut is equipped with a kitchenette with basic utensils and gas cookers. There are dry toilets but no showers or electricity. Drinking water is available from a nearby stream, which serves as a source of water for cooking and hygiene. The price per night is the same as other places and is around 13,000 ISK. Reservations must be made in advance on the website https://www.fi.is/en/mountain-huts/all-mountain-huts/emstrur
  • The camping area is close to the hut and offers plenty of space for tents. The terrain is mostly grassy and flat, creating comfortable conditions for camping.

6. THÓRSMÖRK

Þórsmörk (often transliterated as Thórsmörk) is a beautiful valley surrounded by glaciers, which is the finishing point of the Laugavegur trail and is located about 55 km from the starting point in Landmannalaugar. Þórsmörk is surrounded by three glaciers - Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull and Tindfjallajökull - and is one of the most picturesque areas in Iceland. The place offers various accommodation options and is ideal for hikers who want to end the hike in comfort or enjoy more days exploring the surrounding landscape.

  • There are several well-equipped mountain huts in Þórsmörk , which provide a comfortable base after a strenuous hike. Most of them are run by the Icelandic Tourist Association (Ferðafélag Íslands - FI) and other organisations.
  • Þórsmörk offers several great camping spots where you can pitch your tent and enjoy a night outdoors, surrounded by the stunning Icelandic landscape. Camping costs approximately ISK 2,000 per person per night, as at the other trekking sites. Showers and other services are at an extra cost.

Húsadalur (Volcano Huts) - https://volcanotrails.com/iceland/accommodation-thorsmork/

Langidalur Hut - https://www.fi.is/en/mountain-huts/all-mountain-huts/thorsmork-langidalur

Basár Hut - https://www.basarcabins.is/basar

THÓRSMÖRK - SKÓGAFOSS

If you have enough strength left, you can extend the hike to Skógafoss waterfall. This trail is called Fimmvörðuháls, is 25 km long and is considered one of the most beautiful in Iceland.

It offers a stunning combination of natural beauty, including glaciers, waterfalls, volcanic landscapes and spectacular ocean views. The trail connects two iconic sites - Skógafoss waterfall and the Þórsmörk valley, making it an unforgettable experience for adventurers and nature lovers.

For more information, see this article: 

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LANDMANNALAUGAR

Landmannalaugar is one of the most famous and beautiful tourist areas in Iceland. It is located in the southern part of the Icelandic interior, in the Fjallabak Mountains, and is part of the larger Fjallabak Nature Reserve.

Bathing in the natural hot springs is a great attraction. The water temperature is around 36-40 °C.

The mountains in this area are famous for their incredible colours. Thanks to rhyolite, a type of volcanic rock, the landscape has different shades of yellow, red, green, blue and black. These colours give the landscape a unique and surreal look.

There are several well-marked hiking trails that lead to various geothermal areas, around volcanoes and through lava fields. The most famous is the Laugavegur trail, which leads to the Þórsmörk valley. However, there are many other interesting trails around the main campsite Landmannalaugar. 

For more information, see this article:

TRANSPORTATION

Landmannalaugar is only accessible during the summer months (June to September) as the area is inaccessible in winter due to snow and harsh conditions. Landmannalaugar is most often reached by off-road vehicles via the so-called F-road, which is specific to the Icelandic interior. For those without an off-road vehicle, there are also bus services from Reykjavik.

BY BUS

In the summer months (June to September), special highland buses run to Landmannalaugar, which are adapted for driving on rough mountain roads and over river fords. This transport is one of the most comfortable and common options.

Buses run daily from Reykjavik, usually early in the morning. The journey takes approximately 4 hours. Buses also leave from smaller towns on the south coast, such as Hella or Selfoss. From these places the journey is shorter, taking about 3 hours.

The bus services are operated by Reykjavik Excursions (the same company that operates the Keflavík Airport to Reykjavík service, also known as Flybus). To book tickets online, visit the website https://www.re.is/highland-bus/

You can also use this high altitude bus from your destination (Thórsmörk / Skógafoss).

BY RENTAL CAR

If you plan to drive, you must take into consideration that only mountain roads, called F-roads, lead to Landmannalaugar, which are only accessible for 4x4 vehicles. These roads are difficult and involve wading through rivers, which means that standard passenger cars are not suitable. Some car hire companies don't even allow F-road driving.

ORGANISED TOURS

Another option is to book a place on an organised guided tour. These tours often include transport to and from Landmannalaugar and sometimes an escort service during the hike. This can be an ideal option for those who don't want to deal with the logistics on their own.

AUTOSTOP

For the more adventurous traveller, there is also the option of hitchhiking. This practice is quite common in Iceland, but due to the remoteness of Landmannalaugar and the limited number of cars on the F-roads, this option can be time consuming and less reliable.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

The Laugavegur trail is one of the most beautiful and popular hiking trails in Iceland, but it is a very challenging trail, so it's a good idea to be well prepared. Below are some useful hints and tips to help you make the most of this trail:

1. PLANNING

If you are planning to stay overnight in the huts (in Landmannalaugar, Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Hvanngil, Emstrur and Þórsmörk), it is essential to book well in advance as capacity is limited and places fill up quickly, especially in high season (June to August). If you prefer camping, you do not need to book in advance.  

2. WEATHER AND EQUIPMENT

The weather in Iceland can change very quickly - it can be sunny, rainy, windy and cold all in one day. Even in summer, temperatures can drop to freezing and snow can fall at higher altitudes.

It is advisable to wear functional layered clothing - a base layer that wicks away sweat, a warm insulating layer (fleece or down jacket) and a waterproof outer layer (jacket and rain and wind pants). Gloves, hats and good quality hiking boots (preferably ankle and waterproof) are also important. All your gear should be in a waterproof case, including your backpack. Waterproof bags or packs are a must to keep your gear dry even in the event of heavy rain.

In case you decide to go camping, a good tent, resistant to strong winds and rain, is a must. Don't forget a mattress and a sleeping bag for colder temperatures

3. FOOD AND WATER

There are no grocery stores along the route, so you need to bring enough food for the whole trip. Most people opt for light meals such as instant noodles, oatmeal, jerky, energy bars and other easily portable and quick foods.

Most campsites and lodges have access to potable water. It's a good idea to have your own water bottle, which you can refill from natural springs. Water can be drunk without the need for filtration.

4. NAVIGATION AND SAFETY

Always carry a good hiking map of the area and ideally a GPS navigation device. The trail is well marked, but fog or bad weather can make it difficult to navigate. Conditions can be extreme and sometimes it is better to stay safe in the hut than risk hiking in dangerous conditions.

Check the weather forecast on the Icelandic Meteorological Service website https://www.vedur.is/ before and during the hike.

In several places, especially between Álftavatn and Emstrur, you will have to ford glacial rivers. It is important to proceed with caution as the current can be strong. It is recommended to wear light sandals or wading boots to avoid getting your hiking boots wet. When wading, always look for shallow areas and wade downstream for better stability. Trekking poles can also help.

5. HEALTH AND SAFETY

Have a basic first aid kit with you - bandages, plasters, disinfectant, painkillers, anti-nausea and allergy medication if needed. It is always better to be prepared for minor injuries such as blisters or abrasions.

Don't forget your travel insurance, which covers hiking in the mountains and any rescue operation. In Iceland, you may find yourself in remote areas where rescuers may be needed in an emergency.  

6. TIPS FOR YOUR HIKE

art early in the morning each day to allow enough time to complete the day's stages and to avoid any weather changes in the afternoon. You will also have plenty of time to rest.

While it is important to have everything you need with you, try to limit unnecessary weight. A lighter backpack will make the whole hike easier. Pay attention to packing essential equipment and leave out unnecessary items.

Iceland's nature is fragile, so respect the environmental rules. Leave only footprints - take all rubbish with you and only camp in designated areas.  

7. WHEN TO GO?

The best time for hiking is from mid-June to early September. In these months the paths are at their best, the huts are open and the snow is mostly gone. Outside this season, the trek can be very dangerous or inaccessible due to snow and ice.